I was eager to take a look at the sea but time was short as we had to get the rental van back by noon. I had been to Costa Brava a few years back and Spain is a country with so much seafood and maritime history it would have been a shame to come so close and not take in the view of water. We could only see the lights on the coast the night before while walking around the maritime museum and eating at the restaurant at the harbor. I googled a lookout point that was a 15 minute walk from our AirBnB and somehow convinced a tired Jess to join me and my dad for a morning walk. Steve was up for it as well, so we hurried up to the lookout point but as expected, nothing is quite as simple as the overview of a google map… at the end of the day, we did not have to call search and rescue, we got back to Barcelona on time, and we got some amazing views and photos.

A little over an hour’s drive back to Barcelona from Palamós, drop off at the AirBnB so we don’t have to drag our bags around town, and Steve and Jess venture off to drop the rental van.

Back in Barcelona — the hit list of missed places and what else we want to eat, see, and do… begins! First stop, food. My dad and I took the train down and got off a stop too early at Placa de Catalunya — it was worth it for the experience and grandiosity of this crazy square but honestly the crowds and sheer size was intimidating and overwhelming. The train was equally crazy so we picked our poison outside where at least we’d be walking and seeing more of Barcelona. It allowed us to take the most touristy walk down Las Ramblas to the Boqueria where we would try to get the famous squid dish at El Quím. It was sensory overload, but totally worth it for a taste of the European crowds we’d managed to avoid in our first two days…

After recharging with coffee and churros, we regrouped back at the airbnb to rest for a bit and regroup on our last night’s (all together) dinner and activities. Steve had already tested out the paella at arume, a fancy yet spanish restaurant for fine dining and award-winning cuisine. We made a reservation for our large party of six and walked through the Poble Sec neighborhood — a totally different feel from the busier central gothic and Born districts, much more local and “cooler” feeling as it wasn’t overrun by tourists, it was also a departure from the tiny medieval streets with speakeasy-style bars and restaurants in unexpected doorways.

Arume was a small restaurant and when we arrived, something had happened with our reservation but the hostess was very sweet and accommodating and came up with a solution for us fairly quickly. I have to say, the spanish are very friendly problem-solvers as this was not the first time our semi-large american tourist group had been accommodated in this way. We sat downstairs in a rustic setting, Jess’ Filipino radar immediately piqued and suddenly we were family as Brando made recommendations and shared his history with his new “kuya” Jess.

Sangria and appetizers came, the bread was dark whole grain bread but was the kind that I miss on a gluten-free diet — chewy like sourdough (without the sourness) with thick crust that holds up to mopping up sauce. Of course I had a little nub to sop up the deliciousness.

The meal was amazing: beef cheeks, pork shoulder, two types of paella — one traditional and a duck paella that was rich and toothy like a perfectly-made risotto but not quite as creamy. We devoured the food and politely fought over the last bites… then we ordered the sampler of desserts. Wow.

Not wanting the night to end, and knowing that Marisa and Niko had to leave the next day, we had Steve guide us to a nice speakeasy-style bar called Xix Bar, famous for their Gin-based cocktails. Funny enough, I think Jess and I were the only ones who liked Gin… but everyone got something they liked as the menu was pretty diverse. Jess and I had Gin Mare cocktails which used the rosemary-infused gin.